Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Frederique from Compagnie M



Yesterday, we had a lovely spring like day. It made me long for better weather even more. I always seem to forget how great it is to be able to go outside without coat, leave the garden door open and have fresh air around the house. Today's dresses are made with the newest release by Compagnie M*, the Frederique dress*, and fit perfectly with hopeful thoughts of spring!



I have a love for waist ties and apparently my girls do to.They have skinny waists and usually like very fitting clothes, so waist ties are perfect in that case. My middle one asked me to make her a waist tie dress, after her bigger sister got this one. As usual, she had to wait a few months, I still have to make her those lady bug slippers that I promised her almost a year ago. When Marte from Compagnie M showed her newest design, I immediately saw a chance to at least take the waist tie demand of my to-do list.



The pattern is, as we are used to by Compagnie M, very versatile. Of course there are pocket options, multiple collars, multiple sleeve options and multiple closure methods. You know I love color block options, so those princess seams make my heart sing. You can dress your daughter in this dress whole year round due to the long and short sleeve option. After making amazingly beautiful "plain" Frederique dresses, several testers started to hack, so I think there will be many tutorials available to give this dress even more spins. A reversible option is already included in the pattern itself!




I am very much trying to decrease my stash (did you check the right side of my blog recently). I did buy three fabrics this week though, but in my defense, I got a fabric voucher for my birthday. My jersey stash is still huge, but my woven pile is not shameful at all anymore. I even doubted for a second if I would have any nice fabric to sew up a Frederique, but of course I still managed to create a few possible combinations. I eventually went for an upcycle. I used a 20 year (plus) old pillow case as my main fabric and some Soft Cactus for contrast. I had to cut very efficient, so there is a seam on the inner skirt part and I did not have enough to add seam allowance to dress (which I solved by adding a bias to the neckline).



Like I mentioned before, the testers immediately fell in love with the pattern and made more than they were asked. A few testers made jersey ones and my love for jersey of course made me want to make one as well. Sizing down is the recepe for nice knitification, so I simply used the same pattern pieces for my eldest as the ones that I used for my middle one (I did lengthen ofcourse). I am still very much into brownish fall colors, but added a bit of spring blue. I got this lovely deer fabric from Joyfits last year. I think it will look lovely on a bit more colored skin in the summer.



The lovely weather yesterday also made me do a photography shoot outside. In my favorite shooting spot from last year, I mostly found grey and brown, so the dress is not really coming alive as I hoped. My daughter loved being there with me, so I would say the shoot was success anyway.



The Frederique* is now available on the Compagnie M web shop* for 7 euro for the digital pattern, there is also a paper pattern option (if you buy two, they will be send for free to Belgium, the Netherlands, France, Germany and the UK). Will you go for a long or short sleeves version? My sewing is all spring and summer already.



Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.


Monday, February 13, 2017

Thyme vest release in OT14



Last week, I mentioned One Thimble issue 14* already. This weekend, it got released and I tested one of the patterns, the Thyme vest* my Paisley Roots. This is supposed to be a layering, an in between seasons garment. My kids love to have freedom of arm movement, so I thought it would be ideal with some batting as a truely in-between coat, I might have overdone it a bit though.



This vest has all the features to make it your kids favorite, a hood, lots of pockets and elastic in the waist to avoid that wind blowing up inside it. The vest is fully lined, so there is a very pretty finish (there even is a facing for the bottom of the vest, to avoid a slipping lining) and you can use some of your bigger scraps of a treasured fabric to make a nice pop. I used some Snow white jersey from Lillestoff (bought years ago at Joyfits) that matched perfectly with the red outer fabric (that I bought at Textielstad as a coupon).


The pattern instructs to sew some decorative lines on the pockets. I used the pockets to practice one of the fancy stitches on my sewing machine. I personally love the fact that the pattern has snaps and a zipper. In my version there are no buttons though, somehow my girl voted against them. The vest stays closed without them as well, but they do provide some extra wind protection. The front flap can not blow open if it is closed with the snaps. If I would have to guess, I think my girl voted against the buttons because she just wanted to wear the vest immediately.


Okay, about that batting. I upcycled an old pen play blanket, and like I already mentioned, it might have been (insert a very sarcastic face here) a bit too thick. I had a horrible time sewing in the elastic (think similar situation of having 10 meter of tule under your machine). In the end I just went for a zigzag, and not the pretty stitch lines the pattern prescribes. Yes, you are right, I was not being the perfect tester this time. Karly did say, she now could write an advice against using too much batting in the instructions and if you use batting, to quilt it to the lining pieces (I quilted it to the main, which also created some trouble). I do promise to be a better tester next time Karly ;).


You can buy the pattern either as a stand alone pattern* through the One Thimble site or as part of the One Thimble issue 14 magazine*. 


Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Saturday, February 11, 2017

Cicero jacket release



Today, we are celebrating the Cicero* launch! During the previous two Sofilantjes* releases, my daughters stole the show. I sewed the Folis trifecta for my eldest and middle daughter and those girls also got all the Orbis trousers. I do have a son though, one that loves my sews. So, he needed some sewing love. When Anne showed me her new unisex jacket design, I knew who would be the first receiver. Besides rudely asking to be allowed to pre-test, I even asked Anne to add an extra element to the design. I suggested a high collar on the awesome jacket she designed. I was allowed to sew a prototype with the suggested collar, and guess what, it became a part of the final pattern. I am super proud!



The eye catcher of the Cicero are of course those asymmetrical front pockets (yes, that are pockets!). I really love the combination of color block and functional pocket. Also the back has a possible color block option, which would make this jacket perfect for using scraps. Next weekend, our sew weekend will happen again, and I am planning all kinds of scrap projects. A Cicero with short sleeves from scraps is on the planning. Although I sewed only long sleeved versions, the pattern comes in a short sleeves version as well. If you sew one in jersey fabrics, this would be a cool shirt for spring as well.



The blue greyish version was my first jacket and I made it from two larger scrap pieces (for next weekend I plan a version with all kind of different scraps, not just two). The stars fabric I used for this hat and the blue sweat from Cas and Nina was already used in this sweater. The brown version was sewn with some leftover summer sweat from Joyfits (first made its appearance in the Folis post) and awesome animal sweat that I bought at the Stoffenmadam.



After making two Cicero jackets for my son, I sewed one for my eldest daughter. The Cicero has side seams that are curved towards the front a bit, making them ideal for side seam pockets. Anne was not sure if she wanted to include side seam pockets, it had been her original idea, but she was on the fence a bit. Fortunately, her testers convinced her that you would love included side seam pockets. The color block that I did on my daughter's jacket (with hood) is not in the pattern. I decided to only use the upper color blocked piece, and use one big piece for the bottom part. It is very easy to make this color block yourself though. Take two lower pieces and overlap them two centimeters (yes really, two, just do it), and you are done.



The zippers that I used for my vests are long plastic ones (80cm originally). I like this kind of zipper because they are super easy to shorten to the right size. Just cut the zipper (with scissors) to 2 cm longer than the required length, remove the extra teeth (the ones on that extra 2 cm) from the top with pliers. Than, at the top of one of the sides, place one of those removed teeth between the two upper teeth. Take soldering iron (or something else that can become hot) and melt the three teeth to one new stop. It does not have to be a work of art, but just make sure it does not become too wide. Here you can see a closeup from my first try. Do the same thing on the other side of the zipper.



My daughter's version was sewed with a scrap left after sewing this dress and a other beautiful Lillestoff sweat that I bought as a small coupon from Cas and Nina. I actually already sewed a fourth version, and it should not surprise you that it is a hack. I was not a hundred percent satisfied yet, so I will sew another before I show you want I did (with a tutorial of course).



As usual with a Sofilantjes release the pattern is on an awesome sale for just 48 hours. So get your Cicero* for 5 euro (excluding VAT) in the Sofilantjes web shop*.



Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.


Thursday, February 9, 2017

Orbis on tour



Three months ago, Sofilantjes'* Orbis* pants were part of One Thimble issue 13*. Tomorrow, One Thimble 14* will be released, which means that the Orbis was allowed to come home. Therefore, Orbis is now available through the Sofilantjes' website. To celebrate this homecoming, a blog tour is being organized. Today, I have the honor of showing you my three new versions. It is already day four of the blog tour, so this means you have a nice big load of inspiration to sift through, if you missed the tour until now.



Last year I made my first Orbis for my middle daughter. This time, my eldest was on the receiving side of my sewing. Normally she wear dresses, twirly dresses. On her break dance classes she does need trousers though. So I sewed this funky purple one. The fit is perfect, the pocket is big, the asymmetrical zipper is super cool and she will be able to wear it for a while. No changes needed you might say. But my hacker brain always wants to play, and Anne allowed it.



I was wondering how the trousers would look without the fake fly. I like the asymmetrical look, but I wanted to experiment a bit more. For my next version, I therefore omitted the fly and I wrote a tutorial on how I did it. I already had so many pictures in the this post, that I decided to make the tutorial a separate entry, and you can find it here. If you checked my first Orbis, the fabric from this third Orbis should be very familiar. I even used the same contrasting ribbing.




Due to my diversity addiction, I was not done with experimenting. So, besides having an asymmetrical fly and no fly, I also wanted to make a straight fly (which I also added to the tutorial). This last Orbis was sewn with a piece of leftover fabric from a sweater that I sewed in January, but still am not allowed to show you. The fabric is the silver version of the pink fabric that I used for this dress. The fabric has a bit lower amount of stretch than regular jersey, so I sized up a tiny tiny bit. The silver fabric is special and sparkly, but I felt it needed some extra spice. I therefore used my daughter's favorite color, blue, as a contrast for the snaps, the waistband and the top stitching thread.




One straight Orbis and two adjusted. That is what I promised Anne and Melissa. After making pictures of the purple one, I realized I had not fulfilled my promise! I actually folded the fake fly incorrectly to the outside. That is what you get when you get arrogant and think you do not need the instructions. It was not super strange, that is why I had not noticed (did you spot in in the second picture?), but it was not a straight Orbis. So, I took off the snaps, seam ripped a small piece and adjusted the fly. Than, I even top stitched the zipper (which I had omitted in the first run), so that I could actually present you a straight Orbis as well. I think my son will be the next receiver of a set an Orbis set.




I already mentioned that I am part of a blog tour at the start of my post. here you can find all the other participants, and do not forget to check tomorrow's participants as well.Also do not forget to visit the Sofilantjes'webshop to check out Orbis pattern*.

Wednesday - MoonStar - WonderMirakel (for the Sofilantjes blog), Ronda B. Handmade, Sew Cucio




Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Arctic Racer release



I know, I know, it is still winter in the Netherlands, but I am dreaming of better weather. Two weeks ago, I already showed you this summer dress, today I am showing three more summer items. Yesterday, the Arctic Racer was released by Harristar designs, and today I am showing you the three versions I sewed up during testing.




I recently came across Harristar designs when I was searching for extra inspiration for clothes made out of jersey scraps. I have a lot of those, and although I have some awesome patterns for scraps (like this one), I can always use some more. I therefore bought the Dimo pack from Harristar, joined their Facebook group and saw the tester call they posted a few hours earlier.  If you are considering buying one of Harristars patterns (and you should), I advice you to first join the Facebook group though, the Harristar Gazer pattern is free for member of that group!



Harristar designs are packed with options and the new Arctic Racer totally fits the bunch. With the pattern you can make a tank (two types of bottom hems), a tunic, a normal dress (flared or more A line), a rushed dress and a maternity dress. The dress even comes with pockets, those were added later in game, after I sewed all my three versions, on my next one I will use them for sure. Amber, the designer was cool with us testers hacking a bit, so my first dress, was a one sided rushed version. I wrote a tutorial for you, if you would be interested in making something similar.



All options are sewn up very fast. All hems are just folded over and sewn down. I still do not own a coverstitch, but it worked fine with my general sewing machine as well. I actually hemmed with the inside of the garment on top, this way I always caught the fabric perfectly, and my bobbin stitch looks decent enough on the outside of fabric. I do advice to use a good quality knit for these projects. Making such an easy hem is perfect for good recovery knits, but flimsy ones easily overstretch. A flimsy fabric might also create some trouble if you make the dress. The weight of the dress might pull you shoulder straps down.



I made the top from the same fabric that I used for these trousers. The one sided rushed version's fabric is from Joyfits. The flower fabric has been in my stash for over two years. I bought it when a web shop went out of business and I could not bring myself to cut it. It is so beautiful, that it surely was going to me something for me. After making the rushed version and seeing other tester pictures, I knew this pattern would be a match made in heaven, and I was right.



Due to the release there is a 35% discount on your entire purchase for today with the code ArcticRacer35 (usable once per email address). You can find the Harristar web shop here.