Thursday, May 31, 2018

Cessim release

Today, the Sofilantjes' Cessim shirt is releasing, and this release is an extra special one for me, because I worked together with Anne in creating the pattern! I always love a Sofilantjes release, but now that I actively participated in the creation of the pattern, I am of course extra excited. The Cessim is a relaxed fitted boy shirt with many options. There are multiple color block options, sleeve lengths and necklines.

Over the course of the last months, I created many different version of the pattern. Not all the options that we considered actually made it into the pattern, but to avoid confusion about what is in the pattern, today I am only showing you some shirts that were sewn with the final options (okay one has something extra that we still want to make an instructions for, did you spot it). There are many examples of the long sleeve option in the release post that I wrote for the Sofilantjes website.

The Cessim was designed with panel fabrics and/or scraps in mind. There are four main options for color blocking the body. The first option is cutting the body in one piece and having only one seam at the back. The dark blue fabric with white print is an example of that this option. I screenprinted the fabric last year on her bachelorette party, the print is drawn by our son.

The second color block option has an asymmetrical split in the body, there is one big part and a narrow side piece. The yellow/white shirt is an example of that option. The sharp line is perfect for strong contrasted fabrics. The third color block option has a curved upper insert. The pattern is designed such that you can flip that upper color block in mirror image and have the body seam on the front. Both for the half sleeve and the long sleeve there is the option to color block it such that the line of the curved insert is continued onto the sleeve. The beetle shirt is an example of that.

The fourth color block option is the full Monty, it has both the narrow side panel and the curved color block. This option is also great with the color blocked sleeve. In all today's shirt I used the rounded neckline. It is a round neck fitted in a V neck hole. I really love the extra color showing in the front of the neck where the ribbing is higher. The pattern also includes a V neck and a color block V neck.

The relaxed fit also makes the pattern very suitable for using thicker knitted fabrics like jogging during the winter months. The Cessim is on sale in the Sofilantjes webshop for three days for just 5 euro excluding VAT. I really hope you will like the pattern as much as we do, especially because I very much enjoyed the making process and already have ideas for more! Did you by the way spot the three new Domi's?

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Candice Ayala’s Upcycling Challenge

I am a huge fan of upcyling and I have done several upcycling projects in the past. I also love challenges, and sewing competitions, I have done several from those in the past as well. Not because I think that I would have a chance to win ( I usually drop out after the first round), but simply because they inspire me. The Candice Ayala’s Upcycling Challenge functioned exactly like that. I had all the materials that I need already in my stock, but somehow had not come around to using them yet. I am so happy I did now!

Here you can read more about the actual upcycling assignment, but quickly summerized, you had to upcycle and use new fabric as well. The piece that I upcycled, I received from my sister in law, she thrifted it for me, it consisted of natural materials, cotton and silk and had three very interesting textures, drapey silk, knitted cotton that was super soft an fluffy and cotton lace, plus the skirt part included a knitted lining). Candice gave some great tips in her kick off post. When I upcycle I always try to use as much as possible from the garment, so of course I worked according to Candice's tip of really dissecting the garment with a seam ripper. The shape of the individual fabric pieces usually inspire me like the shape of a rock can inspire a sculptor. I also like to to use original details, like the tailored finishes that Candice mentions. The original garment contained two straps to fixate rolled up sleeves, those I turned into shoulder straps on the sundress, including the original button hole and button.

I used one meter Michael Miller Mermaid Magic Blossom and turned the fabric and the garments into four pieces to create three outfits. I always make before pictures, but this time it was also a requirement. Full disclosure, I did line the bodice of our eldest daughter with a remnant fabric from my stash and I used an earlier made bias to finish the arm and neck holes on the top of our youngest, but those were the only extra pieces of fabric that I used. I lined the lace middle piece on the smallest top with a piece of excess silk that I had to cut off and I used the original lining of the tunic to both line the dress of our eldest and to back the lace on the sun dress of our middle one.

The dress that I made for our eldest is a hacked Brueram dress by Sofilantjes. I have already sewn so many of those, I keep getting warm feelings every time that I see the back of that pattern. Our eldest has started to develop, so I crated two small darts inspired by this blog post. The resulting fit is perfect. The skirt part is simply the skirt part from the original garment, but now I used the back of the skirt as the front, I just loved that flutter detail.

The dress on our middle daughter was totally free styled.  That lace on the back of the original garment had a bit strange shape, but when I but in a triangle of the knitted fabric from the original garment, it totally looked like bodice. Like I wrote before, I lined this bodice with a piece that I had cut of from the skirt knitted lining. I gathered a rectangle of the Mermaid Magic Blossom fabric that was as wide as the fabric as a skirt. It is not a full skirt, but the pretty fabric which includes golden details more than makes up for that.

Our smallest is wearing Scuttle shorts. They are designed for knit fabric, but I felt that the color blocked pocket should work in woven, and it totally did. From the sleeves and front of the original garment I had enough fabric to cut those cute trousers from. I managed to squeeze out a woven top to finish her outfit. I used the other half of the lace as a center piece, I really needed that piece, I would not have been able to create a top out of the Mermaid Magic Blossom fabric that I had left. I used the Sally dress pattern as a base. I tested it a few years back and I remembered that it fits over the head without closure.

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Amelia sunshine sale

During our latest sewing weekend she made an Amelia*, a pattern from Bella Sunshine. I had tested and made many jersey patterns from Bella Sunshine, but not the Amelia. Seeing her dress come alive and looking at the adorably cute pictures in the blog post, gave me pattern envy. The Amelia therefore made a quick entry to my long sewing to-do list. Today's Amelia sunshine sale was the perfect opportunity to move the pattern to the top of the sewing list.

The Amelia can be sewn with long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless and in either top, dress or maxi length. I made the sleeveless, considering that our eldest is in need of summer dresses. The Amelia has a cross over front and a V back neckline. The gathered empire waistband is a lovely play full feature that is perfect for color blocking. I personally really like the contrast with the red dot fabric in the waistband. In my eyes it gives a sophisticated look.

I am very happy with the fact that our ten year old loves wearing colors and bold prints. She will have a guitar recital next week where she has to wear black and when she told me the rolled her eyes and says she "hates" dark clothes. Bunnies are her favorite animals, so I knew this fabric would be perfect for her. With this fabric I have made two dresses before, this one and this one. The two meter that I bought at Joyfits is now starting to near the end.

During the sewing weekend end stress, my sewing partner in crime sewed up two wrong bodice parts. This happens relatively easily when you rush because in the official version there are four different bodice parts (which leads to eight different cutted fabric pieces due to having to mirror the bodice pieces). The lining is slightly smaller to avoid having a peeping lining and a perfect finish. But, you know me, I am lazy, so I again just cut the lining pieces and serged the dress with a slightly narrower seam allowance to keep the intended fit.

Due to the Sunshine Sale, the Amelia* pattern is now just 5 dollar for twenty four hours and you can buy the pattern here with the code “sunshinesale”. Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Saturday, May 19, 2018

Catalina re-release and give away

Blank Slate patterns re-released the Catalina* dress which was the perfect opportunity to sew one. The Catalina is a versatile summer dress that can be sewn in woven or in knit. It was a no-brainer that I would sew one in knit. Knit is my go-to fabric. Seeing that the pattern can be sewn in woven, I actually top stitched it in a non-stretch stitch. This made sewing up this dress even quicker, am I the only one that dislikes how slow a stretch stitch is? The re-released pattern now has a wider size range and an optional front placket.

I sewed up a super easy version without pockets. I thought I never really use them, so why bother? But I have to admit that when I put on the dress, I immediately missed them. I am sure that I will get used to not having them though, because the dress is super comfortable and I already know it will be one of my favorites. I made it with a drapey light weight knit and it is super comfortable. I slightly haked the finishing of the armholes and neckline. I took a narrow strip of jersey and folded it. I sewed the raw edge to the good side of the hole and turned it over. It is not the official way to sew a bias, bit it works well with knits.

Since I was a kid I have a weak spot (pun intended) for spotted fabric and it seems that our eldest has the same. This dress has been her favorite ever since I sewed it, and she still wears it. It has become a bit short, so I bought fabric to make a new red-white dot fabric. By mistake I got twice as much as I planned, so enter my own red dot dress! I do not know why I did not sew one for myself earlier. I love red in general and dots somehow make it even better.

I sewed the knee length version, but the pattern also has a maxi dress option. In her post you see her recently sewn beautiful maxi version and her version is in woven. For even more examples you visit this Instagram tag.

You can buy the pattern in the Blank Slate patterns webshop*. To celebrate the re-release I am allowed to give away a version of the pattern! For a chance to win the pattern you play along by filling in the rafflecopter as ususal. You get "tickets" for following me and commenting on this blog post.The give away is open until May 25.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Playtime dress, OT 19 sewing continued

Last week, I showed you two patterns from OT 19*, the Pixel Pullover and Alfie Sweatpants. Today, I am showing you a dress pattern from OT 19. The Playtime dress is designed by Sew by pattern pieces. The eye catcher of this dress are the round sewn in pockets which create a very interesting color block option.

This blue dress, that I am showing first is, as usual actually the second of the two Playtime dresses that I sewed. In this blue dress I actually followed the instructions for the pockets, and sewed them as set in pockets. If you cut the main piece of the dress it has very big holes in it that you fill with these pockets. I have to admit I was a bit scared of them because, I am not the most precise sewist, that is why I cheated in the first version. But there was no need to be afraid. I just pinned them in and it worked like a charm. You have to pin, but if you do this, it lines up perfectly.

For the first dress I actually flipped the pocket to the inside and top stitched the pocket to the dress. This way you still have the circle shape, but your main fabric continues all the way to the pocket hole. I used a small lining to finish the pocket hole, that is why I top stitched the hole on the white dress. The fit of the dress is perfect and due to the fact that it has different sleeve lengths, your daughter can actually wear variations of this dress all year long.

The white dress I made with "magic" fabric, my kids and me immediately fell in love with the concept. Our kids always like me to make them clothes that can double as toys. They for example also really would love some clothes with the reversible pallets. I did buy a bit of that fabric, but I just did not find the inspiration yet. This fabric changes color in sun light and very quickly made itself in two garments, and I bought enough to make two more and I might or might not have ordered more... Shooting this one inside is a logical challenge, and she had to quickly run inside where I was waiting with my camera.

Pattern Revolution, as always during OT release organized a blog tour and there you can easily see all the good stuff that is OT 19. You can order your copy or the individual patterns here*.

Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.

Thursday, May 10, 2018

OT 19 part one, Pixel Pullover and Alfie sweat pants

The season is changing, which means a new issue of One Thimble! One Thimble 19 * will officially be available from tomorrow, May 11 (but since today for pre-orders and subscribers). Due to the fact that the season change in Australia actually means a change to cooler weather, the new issue is winter themed. Although we are moving to summer,  I already sewed several pieces from the issue. Today I am showing you two perfectly complementary pieces, the Pixel Sweater and Alfie Sweat pants. Besides winter attire, they are great for summer hikes, cool evenings are typical Dutch summer in general unfortunately ;)

This pink and red set is actually the second set that I sewed. If you scroll down a bit you will see the first. When I sewed the first one I was apparently in a rather dark mid winter vibe and choose rather plain colors. I was not optimally happy with my color scheme, probably especially because it hot summer weather now, so I went for a more color full set.

The color is not the only difference. For the first set that I sewed both pieces in size 12. I do not know what I was thinking exactly, but I know that I was driven by the fact that our eldest two seem to outgrow all their clothes within one season at the moment. Our eldest daughter is ten and I never ever sewed according to her age, she was always smaller and even skinnier. But her recent growth spurt let me choose a size bigger than what she has now according to the table. Because I wanted it to fit during the winter. What I of course did not realize that even in the size table 10 and 12 year it shows that kids usually stay longer in one size than one season. The size 12 really was too big. She did not agree with it being too big though and wore it for two days straight. It is so comfy she says, and last week was rather cold.  I folded the cuffs of the sweat pants inside for the picture, I did not hack them out.

The Alfie sweat pants are designed by Ainsley Fox, the woman behind the brand also is the heroin behind the entire One Thimble. The pants are just as cool as the designer and actually have four different front views. The views differ in the front color block options. Two of them are perfect for reinforced knees, which my son's versions are going to get. There are two different options for front pockets. The version with a vertical splitted front creates a cool pocket option that is perfectly in sync with the color block options. The pattern also  comes with instructions on a welt front pocket.

When I saw the design of the Alfie sweat pants I knew that the pattern would be great for upcycling. I noticed before that somehow a grown up pair of pants does no longer have enough fabric between the seams (who is brave enough to unpick jeans seams, I know those people exist) to make our eldest pants. So, by making one side of the splitted front from new fabric I could turn one of my favorite worn to-the-thread stretch pants into one pair for her. Now that I dissected the trousers I could easily reinforce the pockets that had torn before. I kept the original back pockets in the new pants.

The Pixel Pullover is designed by Jennuine Design. Seeing that I also cut the Pullover a size to big, the grey version is a rather roomy. But as you can see on the red version, the sizing is actually excellent. What is better visible on the grey version are the saddle sleeves. They look and sew like raglan sleeves but behave like set-in sleeves when they are worn.

The Pixel Pullover comes with three necklines, a hood, a shawl collar and a cowl. Our kids still love hoods, so I picked the hood twice. The grey stretchy velvet is very fluffy and therefore the hood on the grey one looks rather big on the picture, but she assured me that it is supper comfortable. There are two sets of cuffs, one with thumb holes. When our daughter found out there was a thumb hole option she insisted on getting it in the second version. The apparently feel so natural that she forgot to take them off" when she started to make pastry..... Let's hope she quickly gets used to them.

The way to buy One Thimble* for Europeans changed a bit due to the European VAT rules and new privacy law.  Now, you will be automatically directed to another site where you immediately see euro prices (just 15 euro without VAT). The only small issue is that we can no longer see multiple pictures of the listing, but you can see one picture from all the stand alone patterns if you scroll through to the second page of the OT shop. If you are interest in buying issue 19, independently of your location, I advice you to become a member of the One Thimble Facebook page, you can see all kind of pictures there as well.

Feel free to leave a comment in the language you prefer (although Google translate might have to assist me if you choose something different than English, German, Dutch or Hungarian). If you buy anything through my affiliate links (*), I get a small commission (the price stays the same for you), I am very grateful for everything that feeds my fabric addiction.